Rat Snakes (Elaphe ssp.)

CHARACTERISTICS: Typically docile and attractive constrictors that qualify as excellent pets. Generally even tempered and easy to handle. Large wild caught animals may initially be nervous and bite or musk when threatened, with a bit of patience they tame easily. An efficient climber and predator of rodents and birds. This card is designed to treat all the sub-species as a whole, the general husbandry described is applicable to the North American sub-species of rat snakes. 

REQUIREMENTS: Ambient temperatures of 74 - 82F. Enclosure length at least 2/3 the animal's length, and width & height a minimum third of its length. Does not tolerate ambient temperatures over 90F for long periods. Bred consistently in captivity, buy captive bred when possible. 

DIET: Consist of mice and rats. In the wild prey items also include birds and lizards. 

SIZE & LIFE SPAN: Maximum size 5 - 8 (black rat) feet, with an average size of 4 feet. May live 15+ years in captivity, a reproducing female may live a few years less. 

DIFFICULTY RATING: Easy, an ideal beginner's snake. Hardy, tolerant of handling and tractable enough for children. Forgiving in its' requirements and needs. 

BREEDING: Sexual maturity is reached in the first 1 - 3 years. Refer to the Snakes Sexing care card if the sex is unknown. Breeding season in captivity: Spring/Summer, after a 2 - 3 month hibernation period (winter) at temperatures of 45 - 55F. Animals should be in excellent condition and weight prior to hibernating(brumating). Breeding occurs after hibernation, lays 1 - 2 clutches per year of 6 - 30+ eggs. Incubation temperatures of 82 - 85F (optimal), approximately 60 days to hatch. One of the most frequently bred snakes in captivity. Further reading refer to the Colubrid Breeding care card. 

SUBSPECIES: Black Rat, Yellow Rat, Gray Rat, Gulf Hammock, Everglades, Baird's, Texas, Green, Greenish, Trans-Pecos, California Rat, Great Plains, Rosy, Fox, Everglades, . 

STATUS IN THE WILD: Wide spread and fairly common in it's range, many populations are being completely wiped out as the habitat is being replaced by land development. Some populations are being reduced by over collecting from commercial dealers and collectors. 

DISTRIBUTION: Most abundant in central to Eastern United States. 

SETUP 
Caging: Includes Neodesha reptile caging, aquariums, plastic sweater boxes and custom built vivariums. Cages must be escape proof, easy to disinfect, free of sharp edges, dry, well ventilated, and hold heat to ensure proper temperatures. Avoid unfinished wood and porous surfaces when designing custom cages; these surfaces are difficult to clean and disinfect. Heating: Variable under cage heating pads, thermostatically controlled light and/or under cage heat strips, and hot rocks. Don't use a small hot rock for an animal that is proportionately larger; burns often result if the animal is forced to rest on this type of heat source. A heat source should warm 1/4 to 1/3 of the cage with a basking floor temperature of 84-88F. Use a thermometer! The unheated area should never drop below 70F (unless hibernating). It is essential to allow the animal an area that provides an optimal basking temperature and a cooler area so that the snake can thermoregulate. Do not keep the animal too warm, this a health risk and very stressful. Caution should be used when using lamps. If the heat is extreme it may dry out the animal, create health problems, kill or burn the animal. It is better to heat with an under cage heater and a low wattage lamp. Red lights may be used for heating during the night since this type of light does not disrupt the animals photo period (undetected by snakes vision). Lighting: 12 hours on, 12 hours off, incandescent or fluorescent. Never leave visible lighting on continuously, this causes stress. Furnishing: A water dish large enough to allow the animal to soak located near the heat source. Always provide clean water, disinfect bowl weekly. A hide box or shelter in the heated end of the cage provides security. A hide box may also be provided in the cooler area; always locate at least one in the heated end so the animal does not have to choose between security (from a hide box) and a warm area. A climbing limb that has been disinfected, avoid untreated branches and rocks since they may harbor ecto parasites. Substrates: Newspaper, paper towels, paper bags, or artificial grass are safe and inexpensive. Aspen and Care Fresh bedding also may be used but it is advisable to feed on a different surface, since it could lodge in the snake's mouth. Gravel, sand, mulch, corn cob and shaving may be used but may ultimately cause health problems such as intestinal blockage, respiratory infections, skin lesions and "mouth rot." Cedar is deadly to reptiles! Cleaning: A solution of water, detergent and 5% household bleach is safe and disinfects, rinse surfaces thoroughly with clean water after cleaning. 

FEEDING 

Small, frequent meals are recommended, once to twice weekly. A baby rat snake should begin feeding on small pinkie mice (newborns). A snake may be induced to feed by placing it in a small locking deli style container (with air holes) with crumpled paper towels and then introducing a food item (leave in overnight). As the snake grows increase the food size and if desired reduce the feeding frequency. Offer food items at least once every 10-14 days. Rat snakes may refuse to feed during the winter months, this is normal and correlates with the natural hibernating urge. If this occurs provide a cool location in the cage and let the snake choose. Hibernation is not essential, as spring approaches feeding should resume to normal. Many animals may be conditioned to accept pre-killed or thawed rodents (warmed) at feed time. This technique is safer, than feeding live rodents since this prevents the snake from being bitten by the rodent. Shedding is dependent on the animals growth rate and condition and may occur every month or several times a year. Rat snakes often refuse feeding attempts while shedding. Avoid handling after a sizable meal; this is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a rodent in the snake's cage for lengthy periods; a rodent can cause serious damage to your pet! Provide food & water for any rodent left in the snake's cage longer than 30 minutes. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. Develop proper feeding habits. Maintain accurate feeding and health records. Reluctant Feeders: May be more apt to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Problematic babies may be apt to eat a dead mouse pinkie with its' brain exposed. Try a variety of rodents and sizes. Is the animal sick? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts, consult a veterinarian or an experienced keeper for advice. 

HANDLING 

Always support the snake's body; avoid fast movements. Do not treat the snake as a toy. Avoid techniques which restricts a snake's movement. Avoid public situations which draw attention to the animal since this is stressful to the animal and possibly your audience. A nervous snake may occasionally bite; if biting occurs and is a problem, wear gloves. The handler must convince the snake that it is safe, trust must be learned. Snakes bite for two reasons: they have mistaken you as food or they are in fear of their safety. Snakes do not bite because they are mean. 

PROBLEMS 

1) Mouth rot appears as cankers or lesions in the mouth. This syndrome results from rubbing on rough surfaces, stress, rodent bites and materials lodged in the mouth. To treat, clean infected area (debride) with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (dilute 50:50), remove loose material (necrotic tissue) and swab with betadine 2X daily as needed. If condition persist, medical attention is needed. 2) Respiratory infections appear as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, with gaping of the mouth. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dusty bedding, and stress. To treat, ensure proper temperatures and reduce all possible stress to the animal. If condition persist, antibiotic therapy will be necessary through a veterinarian. 3) Dry sheds are due to dehydration, improper temperatures, illness and stress. Allow the animal to hide in a moist location when shedding, such as a water dish or container with a damp towel or spagnum moss. 4) Thermal burns and "Belly Rot" are caused by exposing the animal to a high heat source or unsanitary conditions. Follow procedure for (2), treat all damaged tissue. Correct the improper conditions. 5) Mites are small blood sucking ecto parasites, which are irritating to snakes. They appear as small black poppy seeds on the animal or in its dish. Consult your pet shop or fellow herper for treatment (Bio strip, ivermectin etc.). 6) Internal parasites and bacterial infections can be a problem especially with wild caught animals. Symptoms such as failure to thrive, regurgitation, failure to feed, sickness and depression are all possible signs of a parasite infestation or bacterial infection. It may be a wise move to bring a fresh fecal sample to a veterinarian, and if necessary treat for parasites. Refer to the Snake Disorder care card.